Sunday, 4 June 2017

MOROCCAN DIARIES CHAPTER I: إلهام - INSPIRATION


Welcome to the first post of my Moroccan Diaries!

promised you to take you to Morocco with me, to write about my experiences and to share all my travel secrets with you. I know, it has taken me quite a while to do so, and I apologise for that. I guess, I felt reluctant and apprehensive to capture my memories in words because I wanted to do justice to the magic of Marrakesh and its wonderful and welcoming people. I started and deleted a sentence more often than not as I felt that what I was about to say would not even remotely reflect the beauty, warmth and hypnotic atmosphere of the Red City. The reason why I decided to try one more time and to attempt to transmit Marrakesh`s vibrant colours, its exotic scent and peaceful beauty through writing is because I made a promise - to you, to myself, but mostly to those people I met on my travels. 



What you will find on this page then, is not a travel guide but a series of pictures and impressions gathered along the way. I will keep my word and mention all the places I visited while suggesting a few things to bear in mind should you ever go and see the city for yourself...but I have decided to change things up a little. Browsing through the internet and other blogs made me realise how many travelogues and posts tend to focus on their author, rather than the destination and its inhabitants. My adventure would not have been the same, had I not made the acquaintance of those rare and eccentric minds that made my trip worthwhile. So, my Moroccan friends-turned-into family including poets, artists, nomads, wise souls, survivors, students, mystics, adventurers, thieves and troublemakers: This is for you. 

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Morocco greeted my friend Izzy and me with the rising sun bathing palm trees, hills and the city walls in golden light. A warm, soft breeze caressed our ankles as we made our way across the airfield. Strangers began to welcome us with nods, smiles and the same word over and over again: "!مرحبا - Marhaba!", we heard from all sides. "Marhaba! Welcome to Morocco!" And welcome we felt as we searched the crowd for our driver who had already been waiting for us. For some reason, the people we encountered appeared to be just as excited to meet us as we were about being there, waving, nodding, smiling, some children blowing kisses at us. Even our driver was grinning from one ear to another, repeating the same expression we had heard before as he stored our luggage in the trunk of his car: "Marhaba! Welcome my friends, welcome to Morocco all day everyday!" We thanked him, laughed, shook hands and took a seat. He started the engine, turned around and asked mischievously: "Tell me girls, are you ready for Marrakesh?" 







Little did we know about the wonders and adventures that were waiting for us beyond the city gates as we headed towards the centre, accompanied by the Moroccan charts blasting out of the radio.












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CHOOSE A RIAD!



The old part of Marrakesh is a wonderland on its own, a maze really, one easily gets lost. Our Riad was at the heart of the medina, which forced our driver to drop us off half way from where we had to continue our journey on foot, meandering our way through tiny, narrow streets and contorted alleyways in order to find our lodging. Stranded, we had absolutely no idea where we were, let alone what direction we were supposed to be going. We should have asked for help at this point but we were too distracted. We could not but marvel at the markets and shops filled with goods of all kind, shimmering, luring and reminding us of the stories told in 1001 Nights.






The entrance to our Riad was inconspicuous. Indecisive of whether we had arrived at the right place we decided to knock. The small door opened before we even got the chance to raise our hands, revealing a group of men cladded in black, chanting "Marhaba! Welcome to Riad Jona, come in!" It was as though those men had disclosed a passage to another world, making us realise that Marrakesh`s true beauty and character is not to be found in its streets but is lying beyond it, slumbering in the city`s hidden patios and secret gardens. There are no words that could describe the magnificence and peace of our little Riad. The place felt like an oasis in the heart of a vibrant and tumultuous city. Tiny fountains filled with rose petals dabbled gently in every room, where gigantic, golden Moroccan lamps were casting oriental patterns on the walls. 






 
























We took our time to wander about and explore until we knew each corner of the place and every member of the staff. We were not only treated like princesses during the entirety of our stay, but were addressed as family members by the end of it. Staying in the Riad felt like we were given the key to our uncle`s house. Free to go wherever we wanted to at any point in time, we moved as though it was our home, not once lacking a single thing. 




























Our mornings were sweetened by culinary surprises and deliciously prepared breakfasts. We were served peppermint tea without even asking for it and got invited to sit in the kitchen for hours, chat and observe the preparation of traditional dishes. 






Our nights were spent at the rooftop terrace, sharing stories, knowledge and long conversations with our new friends while sipping on shay and watching the stars. There was something powerful about those moments we all spent together after the sun set, listening to the evening prayers and overlooking the city and its mystic, nocturnal atmosphere.





It may sound trivial to some, perhaps tedious to others but sitting there - together, happy, grateful and in peace - not only brought us closer to one another, but gradually dismantled any stereotypes, prejudices and misconceptions that have existed between our two cultures. Historically, socially and culturally encouraged to clash, we all forgot for those few hours that we did not share the same religion, the same traditions or the same language. Those indoctrinated `differences` ceased to matter, in fact, to exist but turned into sources of knowledge, mutual respect and appreciation instead. As brief as our stay might have been, those few nights were sufficient to teach us more about Marrakesh and its people than any travel guide ever could have. 



























Staying in the Riad rather than a hotel was the best decision Izzy and I could have made. Not only because of the place`s own beauty and charm, but because we became familiar with and a part of it. Our departure was not easy and felt as if we were forced to leave a piece of us behind. It was nonetheless a small price to pay considering what we had gained in return. Izzy and I had arrived with no expectations, driven by the simple desire to visit Morocco, and left filled with inspiration, happiness and our minds at peace. As much as it was Marrakesh itself that enchanted us, our journey would not have been as magical and unforgettable, had it not been for Mohamed, Salah, Rashid, Lahcen, Hassan, Yussef and Mathieu`s kindness, open-mindedness, respect, thoughtfulness, generosity and love. 

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Thanks for reading, à la prochaine,
Hilary Fierce 





Check out my instagram @hilaryfierce for more photography and watch this space for the next chapter ! Feel free to leave comments below and do not hesitate to get in touch! 

Monday, 6 March 2017

THE MERCHANT`S DAUGHTER


        

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One of my favorite words in Arabic is مسافرة "  (Musafirah), which is the female term for traveller. It was also the first tattoo I got myself when I turned 18. I decided to set up this blog for the exact same reason as I chose to get inked on my ribcage. The thing is, I am a traveller, I always have been. And before you roll your eyes, close the page and think "not another one of these "travellers". Not another one of these travel blogs", let me tell you: You`re right. I won`t deny the fact that there are thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of travel blogs out there. I also won`t pretend to be any different from the rest of them. On the contrary, I am truly convinced that we all share the same passion and an equal desire for experimentation, exploration, freedom, extravagance, knowledge and creativity when filling these blank pages with our thoughts. As much as I believe that each journey is experienced and perceived differently, I also think that every adventure, opinion and experience is equally worth to be written about, shared and learnt from.



When I got my tattoo, I knew that certain things would never change for me. This includes my constant longing for places I have never been, for spices I have never tasted and for the soothing power of the sea and the silence of the desert. Everyday I yearn to move from one place to another or can`t wait to make the acquaintance of people I have yet to meet. Call me obsessed, but you should definitely blame my parents, especially, my father for my nomadic attitude. It all began  with him jetting around the world as a merchant and his refusal to stay apart from his family. Missing us unbearably he decided to take us with him whenever he could. And so, my mother and I went - to Nassau in the Caribbean, to Singapore, Thailand, India, South Africa, Egypt, Oman, Burma, North America, Dubai, Tunisia and so many, many others. Of course, as I grew old enough, I visited places on my own, leaving my family scattered across the globe at times.



I`m aware of the fact, that I`ve been incredibly lucky and privileged. I can honestly say, that I have learnt more from my journeys than school could ever teach me. This is why this travel section is more about gratitude than about anything else. I know that most have not had the opportunity to visit and live in various countries, to make friends across the globe, and to immerse themselves in cultures and customs so different from `home`. With this blog, however, I have the ability to take you with me and make you part of my adventures. 



I must admit, I first considered filling this section with old photographs, anecdotes and memories of all the places I visited in the past. Perhaps, I might one day - provided you ask me to. But for now, this blog shall be a new page in my passport, one I hope to fill with you by my side. I am therefore thrilled to share my travel photography, tips, tricks and adventures with you - I promise, there are a few in line this year! So, from one traveller to another: I can`t wait to meet you and exchange stories. Watch this space - we`ll be going to Morocco in exactly 24 days! 






                             


Much love,

Hilary Fierce

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Check out my instagram @hilaryfierce if you would like to see some photography. And of course,  feel free to leave comments, feedback, questions below and do not hesitate to get in touch! 

Wednesday, 15 February 2017

DON`T TOUCH MY HAIR

Welcome to my page and the very first blog in relation to Art & Design dear readers. 

As a Liberal Arts student in London, I am lucky enough to be able to still my hunger for creativity and the arts, history, culture and aesthetics at any point in time and wherever it pleases me. Fact is, with its abundance of museums, galleries, cinemas, street art and so forth, the capital offers everyone a chance to explore a world beyond the mundane hustle and bustle characteristic of any big city.
The most wonderful thing about London is, how little effort is required to discover something new;  all that it takes is a quick glance around the next corner in order to walk into one of the city`s various art and culture venues. 

So was it, for example, wonderfully convenient for me to take the staircase from my lecture room which led me to Somerset House`s latest exhibition Hair by Sam McKnight. 





For any further information regarding the exhibition, please check out the link below: https://www.somersethouse.org.uk/whats-on/hair-sam-mcknight



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It probably goes without saying that Sam McKnight counts as the hair and session stylist transforming supermodels such as Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington,  Naomi Campbell or Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner over forty years in order to create some of the most iconic images in popular culture. Close friends with Princess Diana, Vivienne Westwood, Lady Gaga, David Bowie and Tilda Swinton, the beautifully curated exhibition at Somerset House invites the visitor behind the scenes, on an exotic, avant-garde journey into McKnight's creative, daring genius. 


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Entering the rooms without expectations, I was left with a swirling infusion of nostalgia and androgyny, romance, courage, splendor, curiosity and the irrevocable desire to book a hair cut soon. Still indulging in the blur of hair creations, colours, cuts, abstract photography and the sophisticated pieces of Haute Couture, I made my way back to my uni, wondering what exhibition to visit next. 


Feel free to get in touch or leave a comment below !

Much love,
Hilary Fierce


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